Jul 15, 2021 · 12:22 pm
Palmi, Calabria, deep in Italy’s south, where my Nanna Francesca was born. So many people warned me off going here, telling me it was too dangerous – including my own grandparents! But I’m eternally grateful Roger and I didn’t heed the warnings. For me, I think the pull of seeing the place of my Solano, Carrozza, Misale and Rizzitano ancestors was too great.
Like many parts of Italy’s south, there’s much unjust poverty yet there is such richness in the life, the cooking, the coffees, the music, art, the dancing and song stories. I love that in the space of a day in Palmi you can find yourself by the sea, in a gorgeous park, up the forested mountain stopped by sheep and a shepherd with a flowing white beard, or down in a cramped city street. Having lunch near umbrellas made of palm fronds next to the gentle swish of the sea or dinner where a tv surrounded by wine is blaring with a variety show on.
I still have the corno and chilli amulets from Palmi hanging in my Brisbane kitchen and I can still smell the salt and Vespa fumes, feel the sun’s blast and the coolness of the Tyrrhenian Sea of when I was in Calabria. And of course, I got to see where Nanna Francesca loved living with her Mum and her Nonna, the local baker. Sometimes it’s good not to listen to hearsay and judgments about a place and just find out for yourself.
Filed under italy
Tagged as Calabrese, Calabria, Calabria coast, Calabria family history, Calabrian ancestry, carrozza, Chiesa di San Nicola, Church of Saint Nicholas Palmi, Concattedrale di Palmi, Costa Viola, Italian ancestry, Italian beaches, Italy in summer, Italy's south, Lido di Palmi, Misale, Monte Sant' Elia, Monte Sant' Elia Palmi, Mount Sant Elia, Palmi, Palmi Calabria, Palmi Cathedral, Reggio Calabria, Rizzitano, Solano, southern Italian towns, Strait of Messina, toe of Italy, Tyrrhenian Sea, Villa Mazzini, Villa Mazzini Palmi, Violet Coast
Oct 17, 2016 · 9:49 am
Another piece from my Italian great-grandmother, Bisnonna Francesca’s glory box… (Cesca in my books). This hand-embroidered pillow sham from 1920s Calabria travelled in the hull of a ship across the world to a new life in Australia and remained tucked away for many decades… a keepsake of another place and life that might have been.
May 19, 2016 · 11:50 am
Costa Viola…the Violet Coast of west Calabria (when I took this the violet colour of melding sea and sky seemed even more vibrant in reality).
This view of the Tyrrhenian Sea is what my Italian grandmother, Nanna Francesca, saw from the balcony of her childhood home – her grandmother’s house – where she and her mother lived after her father went to Australia in 1927.
The house is now gone but I took this from the street where it stood. Those hills across the sea in the distance are in Sicily. Closer are some of the palm trees that give the small, coastal town that was my grandmother’s birthplace its name – Palmi. Though hard to spot, the tall-masted boats on the sea are sword-fishing boats.
Aug 12, 2013 · 10:22 am
I first learnt of this town when reading Old Calabria
by Norman Douglas (published 1915), and on the map it looked a good halfway point to stay between Palmi and Pompeii. This part of the old town reminded me of some of the lanes in Fossa, (not so the 40 degree heat at the time) and even though it appears not to have changed much over the years, the town was quite different to the one Douglas had encountered about a century before when brigands were still imprisoned in the castle.
Filed under books + writing, italy
Tagged as Calabria, Castello Aragonese, Castrovillari, history, Italy, Norman Douglas, Palmi, photography, Pompeii, travel