Tag Archives: Abruzzo village life

On the kitchen table today… peas!

Since I was a kid I’ve loved eating peas ‘out of the pod’. Just seeing them brings up lovely memories. Like the time I bought a bagful from a stall at the market in L’Aquila and took them back to the house in Fossa. Sitting shelling them (and eating most) and watching village life amble by.

Nanna Francesca’s colossal bowls brimming with peas in leftover tomato sauce, passata, ‘the gravy’ as she called it, that she served with her home-made meatballs, polpette, more egg-shaped than round.

One evening when I was in Calabria, seeing in a Castrovillari lane an elderly couple chatting while sitting on their front step shelling peas together. Sensing the lovely camaraderie between them borne of a long time together.

And, of course, Nonno Anni’s pea patch in his backyard at New Farm in the 1970s. Come winter, it was a forest to me as a child when I’d work my way up and down the rows, swiftly learning to open the pods single-handedly as I crammed peas into my mouth. How kind Nonno Anni and Nanna Francesca were that they didn’t mind a kid decimating their crop at times!

Although over the years, this pea patch was replaced by snake beans, chicory then a stack of bricks, I recall again now how years later, when I was an adult, Nonno Anni planted peas there again. ‘Remember how you were always in the pea patch when you were little?’ he said to me, eyes crinkling in a smile with a bit of a tear. ‘I planted these for you.’ It still makes my heart swell to think of it.

I’ve been buying peas from the market every week while they’ve been in season the past few months and this is the last basket now for the year. I’m sad to see them go but they wouldn’t seem as special if I could buy them all year round anyway. So I’ll savour these (not sure any will make it into the pot!) and look forward to more peas come next winter. 😊💚

Leave a comment

Filed under inspiration + history, kitchen stories

il bello, il banale…

It’s pretty quiet here at present while I work on the next book, so here’s a look back to Italy when I was in Abruzzo and wrote Mezza Italiana. The day I hung the freshly-washed sheets out on the old pulley clothesline at the house in Fossa. It’s such an iconic image in Italy, a busty woman suspended half out a window, hanging her sheets on these pulley lines. However, any romantic notions were quickly quashed!

Being so short, I struggled just to reach out the wide, stone windowsill with the heavy, wet sheets (while I stood balancing on two stacks of bricks on the floor beneath the sill). A knot in the rope kept jamming the pulley, my arms ached, I was sweating, (a bit like writing!😉😄) but I got there in the end. Even if the lovely breeze wafting up the alley flapped the clean sheets against the house wall, marring them with filthy marks.

Still, it’s still a lovely memory, and while I wasn’t overjoyed to find out at the time that Roger, who’d been at the shop, secretly took a photo from the down the street, in a way I’m glad now to have it as a reminder. (And who’d have thought it would end up on the cover of Mezza!) The ‘everyday life’ I got to experience in Italy was just exquisite really, the beautiful, the mundane, the noisy, the quiet…

Buona giornata! 💛🌠

2 Comments

Filed under books + writing, italy

Fossa’s village windows…

Following the photographs of Fossa’s doors, it seems fitting to share some of Fossa’s windows too. So many beautiful and distinctive windows throughout the village (and to me, so much more character than most modern ones these days).

These photos were taken over the past 20 years or more so some are a bit grainy since I had an old Pentax camera with film back then. I could have perhaps photoshopped them but that didn’t seem being true to the era of even 15 or 20 years ago.

I didn’t realise just how many photographs I’d taken of Fossa during my visits, especially windows! (And no, I didn’t peek in any!) But I loved the resonances of village life you’d hear drifting down from them as I walked along the lanes – loud conversations in rapid Italian I mostly couldn’t understand, the aroma of a pasta sauce simmering on a stove, a tv set blaring, someone singing… all lovely. xx

2 Comments

Filed under italy, old photographs + art

Fossa’s village doors…

Walking around Fossa, along lanes that become so steep and narrow they merge into steps or descend into tunnels, I began to notice all the different doors I passed. Some with stylised, door furniture of lion heads or dragons and beautifully varnished wood, others crude, weathered timber, or painted mission brown.

Several were fastened with long, draw bolts that looked like from another era, stable doors with cobwebby corners, cat holes cut into the bottom by kind residents looking after the village cats. A few of Fossa’s resident animals managed to get into some of my photographs. I took these in the village four years before the earthquake. Perhaps one of the doors you may recognise as yours! xx

2 Comments

Filed under italy, old photographs + art